The list of hikes I want to do in Switzerland is still very long (and somehow keeps getting longer :)), but no other was on the list for that long as the hike from Zernez to Lavin, right through the sole national park of Switzerland. About six years ago, when I did my first research for hikes in my homeland, I came across this one and had it on my agenda since then. A few years later, some friends of mine read about it as well and at once we agreed to go all together. Unfortunately however, in the past few years, we either didn’t found the time or the weather was simply too bad to give it a try. But finally this summer, when I had another day off work and the weather looked promising enough, we had to take our chance, even if it meant that Manu couldn't join in. He was on holiday and therefore only Cyril and I made our way on a Thursday evening to the lovely village of Zernez. As Zernez is far away from Zurich, we opted to stay in a hotel for one night to head out on the next day early in the morning. Getting up on Friday some time after dawn, a look out of the window revealed an overcast sky with the clouds hanging low over the mountains. Not exactly what we had hoped for, but now that we were there already, we decided to give it a try anyway. :) After eating a simple breakfast and stocking up on food, we made our way out of Zernez at about half past seven. Following a gravel road for a while, we soon came upon the boundary of the national park. Unlike most other national parks, there was no permit needed to enter and so we just kept on walking upwards along the wide gravel road. Apparently, there was a taxi to skip the first 700 meters in altitude, but that wasn't what we were looking for. We wanted to walk the whole way, even though we knew that the first part was about to be pretty tough, as the ascent had looked tremendously steep on the map. Reality had a surprise in store for us however, as the slope turned out to be way gentler than expected. Yes, of course, it was steep, but just not as steep as we had thought. :) So we made good way, most of the time walking on the gravel road or on a lovely hiking trail in the woods, while enjoying the view back to Zernez every now and then.
When the forest finally started to thin out, the terminus of the taxi appeared and about 10 minutes later we had at last reached the end of the gravel road. Unfortunately, the weather still hadn’t improved, it actually was worse than before. Fog surrounded us and looking upwards to where we were heading to, nothing except grey clouds could be seen.
Approaching the turnoff that led us onto a proper hiking trail for good, we decided to take a short rest to strengthen ourselves for the next part of the ascent. Expecting that it would be steeper than before, we were surprised for a second time. Leading upwards in serpentines, the trail wasn’t really any steeper and we therefore again made good way. That the weather can change fast in the mountains is well known, mostly it changes to the bad, today however it changed to the good. :) Suddenly, from one minute to the other, the fog and the clouds vanished and we not only had another view down to Zernez, but also to all its surrounding mountains. What a lovely scenery to behold and while we kept on ascending steadily, we also took the time for a couple short breaks to marvel at the magnificent panorama.
Before long, we came upon the end of the serpentines and while we scaled one last rise, we wondered what would greet us on the other side. Besides another great view, there eventually was the steep slope that we had been waiting for all the time. It wasn’t only steep, but also very rocky and more than once we had to scramble over some boulders to make our way further upwards. We even came across a few chains, but they basically were more of a decoration than a real help. :)
Fortunately, even the toughest slope comes to an end and as an unreal view awaited us at the top, it was once again clear that the effort had totally been worth it. Standing upon the Munt Baselgia, the highest point of today with 2945 meters above sea level, we had a superb 360° panoramic view over the surrounding mountains and finally were also able to see the major highlight of our hike today, the lake land of Macun. The huge plateau lay to our feet and with all the colorful mountains around it, definitely made for the most stunning sight so far.
Naturally, we weren’t the only ones on the peak, but sharing it with only four other people, it wasn’t nearly as crowded as we had expected it to be. With one guy we started to talk and he told us that apparently there were about 50 to 60 ibexes visible on the plateau, but without any binoculars it was impossible to spot them among the rocks. Well, we hoped for a sighting later on and leaving Munt Baselgia behind, we made our way to the Fuorcletta da Barcli, which meant scrambling through another rocky section and getting down a rather slippery slope.
Turning left at the Fuorcletta, more descending awaited us. A narrow trail led over a boulder field, followed by a short walk over snow, before we eventually were back on a proper hiking trail. From above, the plateau had looked pretty flat, but walking now across it, we had to realize that it was all but that. We didn’t really care though, as the scenery was simply too mind blowing for that. :)
Having passed a few lakes already, the biggest one followed before long and with it came a turnoff that we intended to take. Instead of crossing the plateau the most direct way, we chose to do a detour to the popular dragon lake, which was hidden behind some hills.
Turning left, we didn’t get very far and had to stop first because of a marmot hiding beneath a nearby rock and a few minutes later because of a small lake that mirrored the scenery around us perfectly. :)
Approaching the Lai dal Dragun about 10 minutes later, we once again had the perfect timing, as the clock stroke noon and we sat down at the lake for our lunch break. Like at the small lake before, the surroundings at the dragon lake were mirrored in the water and while a nearby mountain already served as a stunning backdrop, some higher snowcapped mountains at the horizon made the scenery even more gorgeous. Enjoying our time out, the silence was only disturbed when the guy from the peak turned up at the lake to take a few pictures, throwing some huge stones into the water to get one with some waves in it… Well, we definitely preferred the silence and didn’t mind once he had finished.
Leaving that beautiful place about 40 minutes later, we first walked along the outer bank, before a bend led us back towards the main hiking trail. Heading down to another lovely lake, we joined up with the main trail again, turned left and started to descend. From there the way knew only one direction: downwards. First along a rather annoying gravel path, then along a much lovelier dirt path. Cows, marmots and the fine views towards the mountains on the other side entertained us on our way down and before long we had considerably lost some altitude.
The lower we got, the more bushes and trees started to line the way and when we came upon the Alp Zeznina Dadaint, the nicest part of the descent was behind us. Entering the forest once more, we first had to take a short detour, because there was some lumbering done in the area. While that detour with a steep muddy path in the woods was kinda fun, the rest was mainly along a wide gravel road and didn’t hold any surprises in store for us. Arriving in the village of Lavin, we were perfectly on time to drink a well deserved after hike beer at the railway station, before the train brought us back into civilization. Well, that had been a blast, even though we didn’t came across any ibex on the plateau and we still haven’t found any edelweiss. :) All in all, it was a pretty perfect day however and we already told Manu that we would join him, if he wants to attempt this hike in the upcoming year. :)
Highlight of the day: definitely the lake land of Macun and its surroundings
This hike is for you if:
- you want to visit our sole national park
- you’re looking for panoramic views over the Alps of Graubünden
- you want the chance to observe or come across a herd of ibexes
- you’re looking for mirroring mountain lakes :)
This hike is not for you if:
- you mind a rocky and challenging trail
- 1500 meters of ascent and/or descent is too much for you
- this is your first hike in alpine regions
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