It always had been a dream of mine to do a long distance hiking trail where I wouldn't come across any civilization but had to rely on my tent and bring all the necessary food with me. So, when about one and a half years ago, my friend Lisa asked me if I wanted to do the Arctic Circle Trail (ACT) with her, I just said yes without actually knowing how long or where it was. :) Well, to answer those questions before you have to google like I had to, the trail is about 165 km long and is on the west coast of Greenland. Greenland? Isn’t that full of ice? And what about the polar bears? Yes, the same questions ran through my head as well. :) Before long I learned that the west coast is in fact pretty green in summer and where there is no ice (or snow), there are no bears. :) As we talked about the ACT among our circle of friends, Zoe and Gregory soon asked if they could tag along and when we were ready to book, Joni decided to join in as well. So, it was the five of us, who made the journey to Copenhagen in the middle of August and from there took the plane to Kangerlussuaq, the only international airport in Greenland. Odd enough, you can start the ACT directly at the airport if you want to, which I’m pretty sure must be a unique thing worldwide, but to save us some time, it was exactly what we did. 10 days of walking lay ahead of us and here follows the testimonial of how we fared on the ACT. :)
Day 1: The Longest Road
Before we set out, there were two things to do. First, we went to the supermarket to see if they had any gas available. As there was no possibility to purchase anything on the way, we had to carry all our food with us and of course had to make sure that we were able to cook what we brought along. Having read some “horror” stories of people who bought the wrong gas or didn’t find any cans left in the supermarket, we came prepared with not only a gas cooker, but with a fuel stove as well. :) Fortunately, there was enough gas in stock and while we initially also had wanted to buy some additional food, all we took out of the convenience store was gas, a loaf of bread and a doughnut to celebrate Zoe’s birthday. :) The second thing we had to do was to repack our bags and find a place where we could store the stuff we didn’t want to take along. Trying our luck in the Polar Lodge just next to the airport, we were told that they were fully booked on the dates of our return, but that the Old Camp had some space available and could store our luggage for us. That sounded perfectly fine, but as the Old Camp was two kilometers out of town, we decided to do the repacking at the Polar Lodge already. It turned out that we weren’t the only ones with that idea, as the terrace in front of the lodge was full of other trekkers preparing their backpacks. Once we were ready, we eventually hit the road and turning onto the main street to head towards the Old Camp, we officially took our first steps on the ACT. :)
Naturally, there was no hiking trail yet and we knew that the best part of today would be spent on a wide gravel road. After we had walked for about 20 minutes, a turnoff led us onto a side road where at the end of it the Old Camp was located. Booking a stay for our return, we were glad to get rid of the additional weight and happily put it into their storage room. Shouldering our backpacks again, once we had stocked up on water, we headed out of the Old Camp, resumed our walk along the main road and soon came upon a first gentle ascent. While we had seen some smaller planes starting from the airport already, the big one was flying back to Copenhagen right when we were at the end of the slope. Climbing a nearby hill, we not only had the fjord of Kangerlussuaq at our feet, but also had the perfect view to watch Air Greenland departing again. :)
Back on the main road we continued our walk in the direction of the settlement of Kellyville and apart from the occasional car that drove by, we had the road all to ourselves. Coming upon a viewpoint about 20 minutes later, we decided to take a short break, not only to enjoy the fantastic view over the fjord, but also to adjust our backpacks and to take off some clothes. While it had been overcast before, the sun slowly had taken over and by now it was completely fine to walk in T-shirts and shorts. :)
As walking along the road was rather dull, we spontaneously decided to follow a dirt track from the viewpoint. Expecting that it would be leading us back to the road, it vanished at some point instead and left us in the hills to make our own way. It was a welcome diversion and we enjoyed the cross-country walk until we ultimately had no other choice than to descend to the main road again. :)
Having thought that the first day would be pretty flat, we noticed betimes that that wasn't entirely true. There were ascents and descents too and when we eventually had conquered one of the longest ascending slopes, we opted to take another break. The view over the fjord was still fantastic and as the weather was holding up as well, we absolutely were enjoying our time so far. In theory, we also could have taken a taxi to Kellyville, but somehow that wouldn't have felt right. Everyone else however, was probably doing exactly that, as we didn’t see any other trekkers at all. :) That in turn might have been the reason why every local in every car that drove past was waving and smiling at us. They almost seemed proud that we were walking and weren’t cheating with a taxi. :)
A gentle descent was awaiting us after the break and when we had about half of the slope behind us, the small harbor of Kangerlussuaq eventually appeared on the horizon. That meant that the turnoff to Kellyville wasn’t too far away anymore and yep, before long we had to turn right onto another gravel road, leading us into the hills.
In the meantime, the water that we had taken along from the Old Camp was long since gone and it was about time to fill up. Fortunately, there was a bigger lake just around the corner, but as we took a look at its water, we decided right away to head to the next one, as what was flowing out of a nearby pipe had the shabbiest color we had ever seen. :) At least the view had finally changed and for a while we were walking along the lovely lakeshore.
Eventually leaving the lake behind, it didn't take long anymore until we came upon a steep ascending slope. To conquer that one, turned into quite a challenge, as our bodies weren't only tired from the road walking before, but also from the longish flight in the morning and the time difference of four hours that came along with it. At least the sky was overcast again and that made the ascent just about bearable. Finally having reached the end of the slope, a single abandoned house appeared on our left and it turned out that that was the settlement of Kellyville. :) While the building had been used by scientists back in the days, it’s currently not a working place anymore and is still waiting to be reused again. Well, having done more distance on our first day than expected, we were glad that the next lake appeared about five minutes later on and descending to the shore of it, we soon found a suitable spot where we could set up our camp. It wasn’t the most perfect place ever, but we absolutely had no desire to keep on walking, as our bodies needed rest after those initial 15 kilometers. So, we pitched our tents, cooked our very first dinner on the ACT, filled up our drinking bags with brown water (there was no other choice, but at least it looked better than the water from the lake before :)) and enjoyed a nice sunset, as the sun burst through the clouds for a final time today.
Usually, the first night in a tent is never the best one and unfortunately, there was no exception this time as well. While it luckily wasn’t too cold, there wasn’t a lot of darkness either and at some point during the night even a slight drizzle was falling.
Day 2: The Land of the Thousand Lakes :)
Well, none of that mattered when we got up in the morning, as the sky was clear, the air was crisp and the campsite enlightened by the shining sun, looked much better than it had the evening before. :)
To adjust our bodies to the local time, we didn’t set any alarm clock and got out of bed when we couldn’t sleep anymore. That resulted in a late breakfast and in an even later start, as there also was no routine yet in packing our things together. The clock stroke 10 when we began to walk along the lakeshore and finally being on a proper hiking trail, we soon got a first taste of the ACT, edition 2023. In the previous month of July, the west coast had gotten three times more rain than usual and that had turned the best part of the trail into a swamp. Fortunately, the boggy parts at the lake were easily identified by the lovely cotton grass, which told us where we could place our feet and where not. :)
Leaving the lake behind eventually, we headed back to yesterday's dirt road and shortly afterwards came across a signpost. Because the sign was pointing somewhere into no man's land, we decided to stay on the road and just ignored it. A feeling of doubt remained all the same and ten minutes later it was clear that in fact it had been a turnoff. :) Well, there had been no apparent path, but seeing a hut in the distance, we knew from the map that the hut was on the official ACT and that we had to walk along a lake to reach it. As that particular lake was already behind us, we turned around and walked across country for a while, until we had found something that resembled an actual trail. :) Turning left, we followed the path along the gorgeous lake and about five minutes later already had reached its end.
Right there, another lake left us no choice but to turn left again and while we traversed between the two lakes, the trail soon vanished in the bog somewhere. Making our own way onto the top of the hill ahead of us, we not only had a first stunning view over our surroundings, but also stood next to the first hut on the ACT. Well, hut was maybe not the right word, as it basically was a caravan with some additional walls attached. The place apparently is used by hikers, as well as local hunters, but I wondered who actually wants to sleep in there. With all the litter around it and being old and moldy, it looked like it came right out of some creepy horror movie from the 90ties. :)
Although the hut wasn't too inviting, we took a longish break there anyway. First, because there was a simple but fully functional toilet and second, because the view over Lake Hundesø was simply spectacular.
Moving on once we had rested enough, the trail led along the shore of Lake Hundesø and while some boggy patches gave us a couple minor detours, we overall absolutely enjoyed that part. After a while, we left the lakeside behind and the first ascent of the day awaited us. We had to climb up to a small saddle between two hills, but as the saddle wasn’t too high up, the slope was conquered in a breeze. :) While my friends decided to walk on, I couldn’t resist heading up the hill to our right, as after all there was a marked cairn on the top as well. Fortunately, that extra effort wasn't in vain, as the view over Lake Hundesø to one side and Lake Limnaeasø to the other was just breathtaking.
Not wasting too much time on the peak, I soon descended from the saddle as well and a bit later had caught up with my waiting friends. While there weren't too many signposts along the ACT, there was one right before Lake Limnaeasø, telling us not to follow the dirt road that crossed the trail there. If we would have followed that road, it would have taken us all the way to Sisimiut (the end of the ACT), as since a couple years it's possible to get with an ATV from Kangerlussuaq to the secluded town on the ocean. As there are existing plans to pave the whole thing, we had read quite a lot about that issue beforehand, but for now it absolutely didn't have to bother us, as we said goodbye to the road at the junction and only would see it again on day six or so. Lake Limnaeasø was up next and with it another walk along the shore. Being a fairly long lake, it took us some time to reach a few huge boulders that were about halfway. Sitting down for 15 minutes, the break on one side, was to enjoy the still perfect scenery, on the other, we also wanted to give our bodies some well deserved rest from our heavy backpacks. :)
Eventually leaving Lake Limnaeasø behind, a gentle rise was up ahead and while we were approaching it, a rather fresh reindeer carcass lay just next to the trail. Wondering how it had died and who had had a feast on the flesh and bones, we walked thoughtfully up that rise, just to see another stunning lake waiting for us on the other side. Heading down to the lakeshore, we came upon a lovely patch of grass, decided that that was the perfect place and before long began to prepare our lunch. As I was in the "washing up" department, I had some spare time to look around and soon noticed something white hopping around on a nearby hillside. It turned out to be an arctic hare that entertained us with its enthusiastic hobble for the next five minutes. :)
Having filled our stomachs to the brim with mashed potatoes, Joni and I did the washing up, before it was time to move on. The trail soon led away from the lake and right into the first real ascent of today. As we were well rested, the slope was behind us rather sooner than later and having reached a vast plateau, we started to walk across it. It was fairly boggy in the beginning and even though the path momentarily vanished in the swamp somewhere, we made good way anyway. While the trail before long reappeared again, it didn't take long either until we came across the first lake on the plateau and by now it felt as if we were in the land of the thousand lakes. Yes, I know that this title belongs to Finland, but Greenland definitely is a fierce competitor. :)
As the trail once again went along the shore, Joni and Zoe asked for a break to take a bath. While Joni jumped into the water without hesitation, the rest of us merely put in our weary feet to give them some rest from today’s work so far. :) Well, that little refresher came at the perfect time, as afterwards hell was awaiting. Okay, that might be a bit exaggerated, but once we left the lake behind, the swamp and its many mosquitoes took over for good. Struggling to keep our feet dry, we took plenty of detours and were always searching for the best way through the bog. Naturally, that was pretty tiring, but it was nothing against the relentless assault of the countless insects. Mosquitoes, midges, flies, the wet underground had been the perfect breeding ground for the most annoying kind. :) As the good weather persisted as well, it simply was too hot to walk with long clothes on and so I frequently got bitten. Little did I know that that was just the beginning. :)
Our struggle finally abated when we had reached the end of the plateau and from there we also had a first outlook towards the next bigger lake called Qarlissuit. Knowing that there was a ford awaiting us, we expected a flooded trail and from afar already could see that there wasn't only plenty of water, but also plenty of people. :) Most of them had set up their camp for the night and while some had found a great spot, others had pitched their tent pretty close to the flood. Hoping for them that there would be no rain during the night, we decided that we didn’t want to stay at that crowded place and prepared ourselves to cross the ford. Lisa and Gregory went first and had to find out that it was pretty deep in places, the water occasionally reaching up to their knees. Slowly they made their way to the other side and gave the okay to Zoe and Joni to follow. I took up the rear and like everyone else, waded through without any bigger problems.
Taking a short break to readjust our shoes and gear, we spotted a lot of rubbish lying in a crevasse between two large boulders. That was really sad to see, as we had thought that people who walked the ACT would be connected to nature and would therefore keep to the simple rule: pack it in, pack it out. Obviously, that wasn’t the case, as we came across rubbish pretty regularly on the whole trail. :( For now however, we left the waste and all the other trekkers behind and scrambled up a steep hill. Walking along the hillside for a bit, we descended on the other side and eventually had to take a decision on how to end the day. Did we want to go on and walk another three to four kilometers to the next possible camping spot? Or should we stay and pitch our tents at the lakeshore to the left? As it was kinda late and another longish ascent was just ahead of us, we decided to stay, knowing full well, that today we "only" had walked about 14 kilometers and that that wasn’t enough, if we wanted to do the trail within 10 days. All in all however, the decision certainly wasn't wrong, also because we had the opportunity to catch up on our schedule during the forthcoming days. :) Last but not least, it was a beautiful place to spend the night and it simply had all what we needed. So, we washed our clothes, took a bath, filled up our water and when after a hearty dinner the sun burst through the clouds for a last time, we took out our flask of whisky, had a sip and everything was perfectly alright. :)
Day 3: The Longest Lake
To prevent another late start, we set the alarm to 7 o’clock in the morning. Getting up about 15 minutes later, we had a look outside and even though the sky was overcast, were able to see the sun rising on the horizon. Despite that lovely start into the day, our spirits were dampened a bit, as Gregory had caught a cold during the night and didn't feel so well. Even so, we had our breakfast, packed up our stuff and started walking around 9 o’clock. Luckily, the ascending slope that awaited us first thing in the morning, was a gentle one and slowly we headed upwards until we had reached another plateau. Strongly reminding us of yesterday's plateau, we were in for one more round of bog and mosquitoes. :) Like the day before however, the scenery made up for any discomfort, with two hills standing out in the distance.
As the plateau wasn't really flat, we kept ascending for a while, passing by a lake and some more boggy ground, before the trail eventually started to lead downwards again. Instead of heading down right away however, I took a short detour over a hill to our right and from there had a nice view over Lake Qarlissuit. “Is it worth the detour?”, Joni asked and as I didn’t know if he would deem the view worthy enough, he and all the others joined me on the hill. “Well, Sam, from now on you can take this view as reference, as it’s simply fantastic”. :) In theory, the detour wouldn’t have been needed, as once we began to descend, Qarlissuit and its surrounding hills appeared right in front of us and made sure that we had something beautiful to look at during our descent. :)
Having reached the end of the descending slope, we had to cross over a small creek, then ascended again for a short time, before the trail eventually began to follow the hillside, always with stunning Lake Qarlissuit to our right. It was another breathtaking part that was over once we came upon the end of the lake.
From there we had two possibilities to reach the Katiffik hut: there was the winter trail going to the right or the summer trail going straight ahead. After a brief discussion, we decided to use the summer trail and before long started to descend once more. While we had thought we might reach the hut without taking a break, that idea simply had been too optimistic. So, once we had about half of the descent behind us, we sat down on some rocks and enjoyed a hearty snack together with a first view towards the next enormous lake called Amitsorsuaq.
Having regained our strength, we walked down a steep, slippery and rocky slope until we had reached the bottom of the valley, where a well trodden, but mostly soggy path was leading us towards the lake. Lunchtime was almost upon us and as the hut seemed the best place for it, we turned right before we had reached the lakeshore and headed towards the two buildings. Two? Yes, luckily there was a toilet as well and as you can imagine it was occupied for the next 20 minutes as each of us took a turn. :) The Katiffik hut itself was very lovely and there were plenty of things to do during our time there: cooking lunch, filling up water, hanging up our wet clothes to dry, searching for geocaches and flying the kite that Joni had brought along. :)
In the end we spent around two hours at the hut and that was almost a bit too long. But well, we were on the ACT to enjoy it and not to walk through as fast as possible. :) Eventually saying goodbye to the Katiffik hut, it was about time for our walk along Lake Amitsorsuaq, but we didn't even make it around its head before we already had to take another break. :) Surprisingly enough, we came across a beautiful small beach, which would have been the perfect bathing spot, but as the time sadly was lacking, a few minutes of appreciating this gorgeous place was all we could take.
Moving on at last, the trail shortly afterwards started to follow the left side of the lake and it was kinda hard to believe that Lake Amitsorsuaq would be our companion for the next 20 kilometers. It was quite a long lake indeed, but that also meant that there mostly was flat ground and we had the possibility to catch up on our schedule. Knowing that there were two boulder fields to scramble through as well, we were excited to see what the trail had to offer. :) Hugging the lakeshore, it was a very lovely beginning and it got even lovelier once we came upon that first boulder field. As it wasn’t too difficult to pass through however, we soon were on our way to the second one.
That one proved to be more of a challenge as the path was partly overgrown, flooded or barred by some massive boulders. It was impossible to get through without a scramble, which with the heavy backpacks on our shoulders, definitely wasn't the easiest thing to do. Slowly and steadily, we made our way across the field, all the time however enjoying the variety of the trail, as well as the magnificent landscape.
Having overcome that challenge unscathed, we continued our stroll along the lakeshore, after we had taken a short break. That it wasn't all just flat ground, we had to learn about 20 minutes later when a hillside was in the way and had to be climbed. For once the slope was somewhat steeper, but the views that the highest point offered over Lake Amitsorsuaq were definitely worth the effort. :)
Descending on the other side, we were still surprised how dry the trail so far had been. Of course there were some boggy patches too, but they were mostly small and could be sidestepped easily. There also were no mosquitoes around and as the day carried on, the clouds started to disperse slowly, meaning that we got some sunshine as well. Everything taken together made the walk along the lake just perfect. :) Basically, the only thing missing was a living reindeer. According to our guidebooks we should have seen them more or less everyday, but until now had seen only bones and antlers and nothing else. :( Well, our hopes remained high, as there still was plenty of time to see a living one. :)
So, on and on we walked along the shore of Lake Amitsorsuaq, until it was time to discuss where we should stay for the night. There was a camping spot marked on the map, which was about three kilometers away and as there not really was any other option, we decided to go for it even though we were already a bit tired. It took us another hour to reach the campsite and that hour was definitely the most arduous one of today. Our legs were weary, our shoulders were aching and our goal simply didn't seem to come closer. Nevertheless, we pulled through, clocking in at around 18 kilometers today and were rewarded with the most fantastic camping spot so far. Flat, dry, close to the lakeside and with a hill to climb for the view, it couldn’t have been more perfect. :) Once the tents stood and the cooking was under way, I decided to check out the viewpoint on the hill and wasn’t disappointed. Lake Amitsorsuaq was just a real beauty and I enjoyed the panorama for a while before I headed back to camp for dinner.
As it was pretty late already, Zoe and Gregory went straight to bed after we had eaten, while Lisa, Joni and I decided to walk up to the viewpoint. Remembering our discussion in the morning, I had told Joni that the climb was absolutely worth it, but even I was taken by surprise when we reached the top of the hill. Taking a look towards the horizon, the sun was just about to set and it was that low already that the golden beams were perfectly reflected on the calm waters of the lake. It was the perfect timing and having brought along our flasks, we enjoyed the spectacular sunset with a sip of some finest Scottish whisky (or in Joni’s case with some Swiss Migros Iced Tea :)).
Heading back to our tents once the sun was gone, we all fell tired into our sleeping bags and only then I realized that we hadn’t seen a single other person on the trail today. :)
Day 4: The Longest Swamp
Being tired doesn't necessarily mean that there would be a good sleep too, as also the third night wasn’t the best I ever spent in a tent. It was pretty cold and it didn't help either that it never was entirely dark, so I was already awake before Gregory's 7 o’clock call. Taking a look outside, it was obvious why it had been freezing cold as the sky couldn't have been any clearer. The sun was just about to rise as well and keeping my tent door open, I watched the spectacle from my sleeping bag, but soon had to go outside to take some pictures. :) Once that was done, I sat down on a pile of rocks and enjoyed the beautiful sunrise to its fullest.
Gradually my friends awoke as well and before long our daily morning routine was under way. Everyone else also had had a cold night and Gregory felt even more miserable than yesterday. His cold was still on the rise, but at least the sun was shining now to give him and the rest of us some warmth. After a hearty porridge for breakfast, we were ready for the day and picked up the trail where we left it off the evening before. Our first goal was to reach the canoe center at the end of Lake Amitsorsuaq, but as the center still was about nine kilometers away, we knew that quite some leg work was ahead of us. Unfortunately, the first couple of hours were rather dull, as the scenery didn't really change throughout. On and on we walked along the shore and right when I thought the lake won’t end forever, we were able to make out some sort of peninsula on the horizon. Lisa and Joni had been walking ahead for some time, but now they waited for the rest of us and once we caught up, they asked: "Do you see that huge boulder in the water at the peninsula over there? That's a musk ox taking a bath in the lake!" Hahaha, you wish and we all had a good laugh together. Definitely more important than any fictitious animal was, that the dull stretch was about to come to its end. :)
Slowly getting closer to that peninsula, we lost sight of the boulder for a while, but as soon as we were able to have another look, we somehow couldn't see it anymore. Scanning the nearby surroundings, we noticed to our surprise that it had moved and in the meantime stood in the grass close to the shore. Uff, could it actually be? Excited, we started to walk a bit faster and soon had our certainty: it wasn’t a boulder with legs, but definitely a musk ox. :) Wow! Staying on the trail, we got closer and closer to the mighty animal and as he didn’t move away, we were able to observe him from a distance. Naturally, he had noticed our presence as well, but after eyeing us for some time, he decided that he rather continued to eat some grass then watching us walking along the ACT. :) A few minutes later, he had moved behind a hill and while Zoe and I decided to follow the trail to the top of the hill, the others took a wider approach to not come too close to the animal. Soon we had reached the peak and as we took a look to our right, two eyes stared back at us. Being about 20 meters away, the musk ox eyed us again and right when the rest joined us to marvel at the beautiful beast, he turned his head, moved a few steps to the side and broke into a run. Luckily, not towards us, but at first across the plain and then finally up into the mountains. We stood there in awe and were more than impressed by how fast a musk ox actually can run.
Once he was out of sight, we had to sit down to catch our breath and process what just had happened. While we had hoped to see a musk ox, this encounter was more than we could have ever asked for! Unfortunately, the view from the top of the hill almost got a bit lost in the shuffle, which was kinda a bummer, as it was nothing short of amazing. :)
As lunchtime was approaching and we were getting hungry, we decided to move on, so we could have our lunch break in the hut. Descending from the hill, we soon were back at the lakeshore again and shortly afterwards came upon a cliff. Unfortunately, the only possible way at the bottom of the cliff was flooded by the lake, which meant we had to hop from stone to stone to make our way around the escarpment.
A second cliff stood in our way not much later on, but this time the trail led across it, giving us the possibility to enjoy the views from above. Descending on the other side, the canoe center was right ahead of us. Back in the days, the center had been built to attract tourists for canoe trips on Lake Amitsorsuaq. Because of the remote location however, the crowds didn’t come and the center never fulfilled its initial purpose. As it's by far the largest hut on the ACT though, it’s a popular place for trekkers to sleep or use its many facilities. Having read that there were no canoes anymore, we were surprised to see about seven or eight brand new ones on the shore, fully equipped with life vests and oars. Hmm, should we use them to head to the very end of the lake? That question had to wait for a moment, as at first we used the kitchen to cook, the beds to take a nap, the toilet for some relief, the electricity to charge our batteries and the guitar to sing a song or two. :)
During our lunch break, some other trekkers reached the hut as well and for the first time we were plunged in the mandatory hikers talk. Where did you start? Where do you come from? Where are you going today? With the canoes, really? :) Well, the decision on how to continue was still open, as Joni and Lisa really wanted to use the canoes. While we tried to find out how much weight they can carry, we came across a note on the wall of the kitchen, saying that they weren’t allowed to be taken to the very end of the lake. Apparently, in the past, there regularly hadn't been enough water and that was why the canoes had suffered damage and fallen apart. While there was more than enough water when we were there, we decided against it anyway, as the note was quite clear.
Continuing our walk along the shore once lunchtime was over, the terrain soon became harder and at the same time the scenery made a change as well, as our surroundings were suddenly littered with boulders. Eventually approaching the end of Lake Amitsorsuaq, the beautiful rugged lakeside we passed through in the hour after the center simply made for the perfect ending of our varied walk along the lake.
Right where the lake transitioned into the outflowing river, we passed a canoe frame and a lonely canoe, as someone apparently had ignored the note and used one to get there. While we were beholding that dreary sight, a group of German trekkers approached us and as we started to talk, we used the conversation to ask some important questions. We learned that they had taken the new trail from Sisimiut to avoid the road and that they had used the bridge to cross over the Itinneq river, as the water level was way too high to ford. Both matters would be an issue during the upcoming days and we were glad for the additional information. Saying goodbye, we made our way over swampy ground towards the riverbank and in theory, could have stayed on the left side, as there was a trail as well. But because we wanted to keep away from the bog, we decided to cross over the river and follow the official ACT on the other side. We absolutely were happy with that decision, as an entirely dry path led us up onto a hill. The view from there towards the plateau below was beautiful and the descent back to the river was just as lovely. :)
Crossing over the river for a second time, we started to walk across the vast plateau, where plenty of cairns were helping us to find the way. Unfortunately, our quest to escape the swamp and its mosquitoes soon proved to be futile. Large boggy patches awaited us and although we tried our best to avoid them, it was simply impossible to keep our feet dry. Well, being on day four already, we mostly had accepted our fate of having wet shoes all the time. :) Keeping a steady pace, we walked around a hillside and eventually were able to see the final descent of today. A gentle slope led down a wide valley, leading to our designated camping spot at the huge Lake Kangerluatsiarsuaq. The lake seemed fairly close from above and as we were pretty tired already, we were looking forward to sitting down and having a good evening’s rest.
So, we began to descend without wasting any time and soon had to learn that the trail from now on was basically drowned in water. Again we did our best to avoid the mud, but there quite simply was no chance. Additionally, what had looked like a shortish descent, turned into a never-ending slope and while the bog made every step harder than it was supposed to be, the swarms of mosquitoes were the cherry on top, turning the descent into a tiny little nightmare. While Joni, Lisa and I with our low shoes had given up a long time ago and just walked through every puddle that was in the way, Gregory and Zoe had the advantage of their high boots, but even their feet weren’t dry anymore at the end of the valley, although they weren’t as soaked as ours.
As you can imagine, the fun factor was a bit low at that very moment, but eventually reaching the end of the slope and seeing the beautiful Lake Kangerluatsiarsuaq in front of us, we absolutely were rewarded for the struggle before. Unfortunately, the only possible spot at the shore was full of rubbish and therefore we decided to camp a bit further above. It wasn’t the most perfect place ever, but the ground was flat, comfy and not too wet. Having set up camp, four of us went down to the lake for a refreshing bath and to wash some clothes, while Gregory stayed behind to prepare our dinner. Once we were all clean again, I paid the lakeside a second visit, as in the meantime the clouds, the sun and the mirroring lake had staged a scenery that simply was insane. :)
Dinner once more was delicious and even though the lake was a bit far away, I fulfilled my washing up duty without hesitation at all. By now, it was clear anyway that we as a group were working very well together and to celebrate a tough long day, we not only had a sip from our flask, but extended our whisky ritual with a piece of dark chocolate. :) Falling into bed early again, as we were too tired to do anything else, I was counting the bites on my arms and legs and wondered what the trail had in store for us tomorrow. :)
Day 5: The Most Beautiful View
While we thought the previous night had been cold, the last night was even colder and not surprisingly, we all had a hard time getting up in the morning. The start into the day therefore was a bit slower than usual, but at least, the sky was clear once more, Gregory eventually felt better and our morning routine was that far advanced, that even though we got up slowly, we still left our campsite on time at 9 o’clock. :)
Walking along the lakeshore for a while, the trail ultimately led away from it and right into the first ascent of the day. Luckily, the slope was gentle enough and the walk upwards served as a good warm up for what was about to come later on. :) Once the rise was behind us, we crossed over another plateau, before the end of it gave us a good overlook into the next valley with its scenic route. In my guidebook, the author had gushed about the walk along the beach of Kangerluatsiarsuaq, but the reality in 2023 was a different one. Not only the best part of the beach was flooded, but also the trail that went through behind it and yes, we all knew exactly what that meant. :)
Having enjoyed the spectacular view for another moment, we then descended to the bottom of the valley and tried our best to get to the other side of the flooded part with dry feet. While my four friends decided to do a wider detour, I took the most direct approach, but in the end, it didn't really matter where we went through, as we all ended up with soaking wet shoes once more. Well, what did the Germans say yesterday? “It's just another day in the swamp!” :) Fortunately, the sun was still shining strongly and when we started today's main ascent, our shoes had already begun to dry again. Taking a short break once we were a bit higher up to regain some energy, the slope afterwards got steeper in no time and after crossing through a boggy patch of willows, the steepest part of the ACT so far was just ahead of us.
A hillside had to be conquered head-on and while the whole thing was pretty steep, the path actually was well maintained and we had no trouble finding our way. Taking a look back from above, the view towards the valley we just had crossed was fantastic, but having reached the end of the slope didn’t mean that it was the end of the ascent. :) Less steep than before, but still steep enough, the trail kept going upwards and thanks to the gorgeous views, we had a good reason to stop every now and then. :)
Slowly and steadily we continued our way up the hillside, until it eventually leveled off somewhat. Of course, a strenuous effort should be rewarded and so we took another break, ate a hearty snack and just enjoyed the absolutely stunning panorama. :)
Moving on once we had rested enough, the ensuing walk over the high plateau definitely made up for any kind of struggle we had had so far. The landscape was just spectacular and while a gentle breeze kept the mosquitoes away, the ground was dry as well, which was a real blessing after yesterday's ordeal. :) Eventually coming upon the highest point, we enjoyed the outlook for a while and spontaneously decided to eat our lunch right there. That decision was definitely spot-on, as the scenery quite simply was the best of the trail so far. Lake Kangerluatsiarsuaq with its surrounding mountains still could be seen in the distance and while my friends started to prepare our lunch, I sat down on the ground to feast my eyes on that gorgeous view. :)
After we had eaten, we took a nap in the blazing sun, before out of nowhere the wind suddenly picked up. And it didn’t pick up just a bit but came along so fierce that it was impossible to keep lying about in the sun. Well, off we go then and I think we never packed up that fast, as all of us got cold pretty quickly. :) As an exception, the wind for once came from the west and blew right into our faces, making us take a short stop after we had descended from the viewpoint, as we urgently had to adjust our clothing. Continuing our walk over the high plateau, the way led downwards for some time, before it gently went upwards again. Having just passed a longer lake, we saw the next one already ahead of us, when Lisa suddenly called out: “Reindeer!” Looking towards where she was pointing, a big reindeer with huge antlers could be seen grazing on a hillside, just beyond the shore of a before hidden lake. Observing the reindeer for a few minutes, it slowly moved further away from us and never came close enough to take a picture. Well, I can assure you, it really was there and we were happy that we finally had seen a living one. :)
Moving on after the reindeer had disappeared, the trail continued with its gentle ascents and descents and when there eventually was a steeper slope again, a panoramic view appeared right at the end of it. Looking at a vast lake land, the view was overwhelmingly beautiful and we had to take a moment to admire the fantastic landscape. Not pausing too long, as we had taken enough breaks before already, we soon were walking on, but nevertheless were able to enjoy the beauty of the lake land to its fullest, as the path led more or less right along it. :)
20 minutes later, we found a spot that somewhat was sheltered from the wind and sat down to discuss the plan for tonight. As the rather cold nights in our tents had taken their toll, we decided to get some comfort for once and stay overnight at the next hut. The prospect of an even floor to sleep on and to have a proper shelter from the elements sounded way too appealing to all of us. :) Knowing that the hut wasn’t far away anymore, we soon were back on the trail and shortly afterwards faced another ascending slope. It was a long but gentle ascent and slowly making our way upwards, we were glad that there still was no swamp at all, which meant that our shoes were almost dry again. :) The Ikkattooq hut appeared in the distance before long and while Lisa and Gregory increased their pace, the rest of us took their time, enjoying the beautiful views along the way.
Finally arriving at the hut, we were surprised to see four tents already pitched next to it and shortly after we had been sitting down on some rocks, a Danish couple was arriving as well. The Ikkattooq hut had space for six people and had already looked crammed before their arrival. Naturally, they also had planned to stay there, while for us, it simply was too much. Having not seen that many trekkers until now, we were a bit overwhelmed by the amount of people and as we wanted to stay away from bigger groups anyway, the decision to move on was an easy one.
Of course, it would have been nice to have a proper shelter for the night, but we still had the chance to use one of the other huts along the way. Our only worry which remained was the wind. It hadn’t subsided so far and blew even fiercer than before, so once the decision to keep going had been taken, we didn’t waste another second, shouldered our bags and started to walk again. Unfortunately, what was awaiting right after the hut was another ascent and while it was a fairly steep one, it also boasted some great views back to the hut and to an impressive lake nearby.
The scenery definitely made the ascent easier, once we had left the slope behind however, we were able to look into a glen and saw an even steeper rise on the other side. Well, one more was just about doable and lucky us, it wasn’t a very long one. Coming to the end of it, we stood at the shore of the lake that we had in our minds as a possible camping spot. Just following the most obvious path, we were scanning the area for potential campsites, but soon had to notice that we were on the wrong trail. :) Retracing our steps to the beginning of the lake, we took a right turn and shortly afterwards passed a first possible campsite. While it featured shelter by some rocks, the ground unfortunately was pretty uneven and it also was a bit far from the lake. As we couldn’t see from the distance if there was a better spot available, I volunteered to do a quick scout and on my stroll, found a lovely place closer to the shore. Making our way there, some careful consideration of where exactly to pitch our tents was needed, but as we had enough experience in the meantime, the matter was solved quickly and our tents before long were a valuable shelter from the relentless wind.
Taking up our daily evening routine, we brewed ourselves some coffee, filled up our drinking water, washed our clothes, had an enjoyable dinner and braced ourselves for another rough night. The sky had been blue for the best part of the day, but once the sun vanished behind the hills, it got cold very quickly. So, after we had had our whisky and chocolate, we ended up in our sleeping bags at around half past 8 already. :) It never had been that early so far, but we all used the additional spare time, either to write in our diaries, listen to podcasts, think about today's breathtaking landscapes or to make a few notes for a particular blog. :) Interestingly enough, the minute we laid ourselves to sleep, the wind turned off as suddenly as it had been turned on at midday. Well, that suited us quite right and we headed into the land of dreams with the exciting prospect of putting on dry socks and shoes the very next morning. :)
Day 6: The "Valley of Mosquitoes"
Fortunately, the night wasn’t as cold anymore as the two recent ones had been and so the sleep had turned out better than expected. Also the wind had been quiet overnight, but it picked up again, as soon as we stepped out of our tents. Well, Mother Nature can be an oddball sometimes. :) At least the mosquitoes couldn’t bother us at breakfast and knowing that a long day was ahead of us, we left our campsite as usual at around 9 o’clock. Right away starting with the first ascent of the day, we definitely didn’t mind the walk upwards for once, as we used the effort to warm up our bodies. :) Having reached a saddle at the end of the slope, we started to descend gently on the other side, all the time marveling at today's early morning special landscape. On the hills to our left and right were hundreds of solitary boulders strewn all over the place. To me it looked like an artist project, as if the artist had taken the boulders and just placed it randomly somewhere on the hillside. :)
Naturally, it was a pleasure to walk amongst a landscape like that and all too swiftly we had left the gentle part of the descent behind. Ahead of us, we eventually got a first view towards our biggest challenge on the ACT: the valley of the river Itinneq with its at times difficult river crossing. Normally, in the middle of August, the crossing shouldn’t pose a big problem anymore, as the water level usually would be somewhere up to the knees. 2023 wasn’t a normal year however, as you definitely know by now. :) Basically, it was clear beforehand that it would be impossible to ford the river and the final confirmation was given by the Germans on day four. As you can imagine, there are plenty of times in other years too where the ford is impassable and therefore a flood route with a bridge was installed some years ago. So far, there's no trail to get to the bridge and the flood route in general had been described as a nightmare, not only by other trekkers, but by our two guidebooks as well. That the Itinneq valley was dubbed as the “Valley of Mosquitoes” didn’t lift our mood either. :) Well, we had no choice anyway when we wanted to get to Sisimiut and so we slowly started the steep descent towards the bottom of the valley.
As it was my job to lead us all safely to the bridge, I picked up my pace a bit and descended faster than my friends, to get a first overview of the upcoming part. Understandably, we wanted to use the official trail as long as possible and afterwards it was the plan to keep to rocky ground as best as we could, as one didn't need to be a seer to know that the ground of the valley was pretty boggy. :) Coming across some foothills before long, it was the best place to leave the trail and heading over the rocks to the very end of them, a last short break seemed fitting before the challenge at hand. The others soon caught up with me and while we sat down for a while, the sun eventually appeared over the surrounding hills.
About the same time, the mosquitoes appeared as well and when we began our adventure across the valley floor a few moments later, the net to keep them away from our face was our only weapon against their assault. Although the sunshine was super nice and we appreciated that we were able to do the flood route without any rain, it soon was too hot to walk with long clothes on, which meant that the mosquitoes were about to have some fun with us in the next couple hours. :) Well, the beginning was decent enough anyway, as we headed towards a rocky outcrop at first. It seemed to be the best way to go and while the ground was less boggy than expected, we also were lucky enough to cross a small creek in between without getting wet feet. Having reached the outcrop, we carried on right away and decided to head in a direct line to the foot of the hills to our left. Again, we were surprised by the mostly firm ground and for a second time we had enough fortune with the traverse of another creek.
Eventually arriving at the foot of the hills, we suddenly came upon a proper trail, as apparently everyone that takes the flood route, keeps to those hills on our left. :) Glad to follow a path for a while, we stayed on it until the track slowly petered out. From there, we opted to head in a direct line towards another prominent foothill and not much later the ground ultimately got more challenging. Not only were the boggy parts deeper, but the firm parts were either very soft or overgrown with tiny bushes, which meant that we had to be very careful where we placed our feet. Of course, the pace was rather slow in a setting like that and as you can imagine, our legs soon became weary too. The strong sunshine didn't let up either and as the mosquitoes still came in hordes, it was just right to take a break when we had reached a mound somewhere in the middle of nowhere. :) Our spirits in that moment were a bit low, as the previous part had been especially demanding and had resulted in the inevitable soaked shoes. Some rest and a hearty snack can do wonders though and with our strength returned, we shouldered our bags once more and headed across some smaller hills in the direction of that prominent foothill.
When we finally had reached the foothill, I thought we might see the river or the bridge in the distance, but that hope was in vain. At least we found another hiking path and like the last one used it until it petered out. :) For quite a while I had been on the lookout for two white hunters' tents as well, as one of the Germans on day four had told me to take a right turn there. Well, by now, I had realized that they must be on the other side of the river and seeing them appear on the horizon, we at least knew that our goal was coming closer. :) Cutting diagonally across the valley floor from where the path had disappeared, some water eventually could be seen ahead of us. Finally, the river! Before long however, we realized that it wasn't the Itinneq, but just a flooded area that was blocking our way. :) There was no other choice than to walk around it and as the exact same thing happened again shortly afterwards, it made the search for the bridge seem endless. For a very short moment, I even doubted if it existed at all, but of course it did and once we had passed the flooded areas, the bridge at last appeared in front of us. :)
Uff, that definitely had been the most arduous part so far and we were just glad that we had made it. Sitting down at the river for a moment, we summed up the flood route and had to say that overall it went better than expected. Apart from the wet feet, the occasional stumble on the uneven ground and the hundreds of new mosquito bites, we had made it through unscathed and were now looking forward to a well deserved lunch break. Having read that the bridge had been damaged by the floods a few weeks ago, we knew as well that hunters had repaired it and as we now crossed over one by one, we absolutely felt safe in doing so.
Unfortunately, to head back to the official trail wasn't as easy as we had thought it would be. At first, there was another vast patch of bog, before we had to conquer a steep rise as well. It was the most direct approach however and when we eventually were back on the ACT again, we knew that the next hut wasn’t too far away anymore. Walking past one of the rare signposts shortly afterwards, we took a last look at the "Valley of Mosquitoes", happy that we had the most difficult part behind us. :) The trail now led around a hillside, but as the hut still was nowhere to be seen, we decided to tackle the next ascent and no matter what, just eat our lunch at the end of it. Luckily, the hut finally appeared on the ensuing plateau and about five minutes later, we relieved our shoulders from our heavy load. Relief and heavy load could be used in another context as well, as the Eqalugaarniarfik hut was another one with a toilet. :) The used toilet bags were stored in a box near the entrance though and that resulted in a pretty bad smell around that area.
So, we settled down on some rocks a bit further away, rested our legs and filled our stomachs with plenty of pasta. :) Fortunately, it was pretty quiet at the Eqalugaarniarfik hut, as apart from the Danish couple, there was no one else. A few other trekkers were passing by, but they all carried on without stopping. As it was way too early to stay for the night, we also decided to move on and being back on the trail after the well deserved rest, we soon came across a river where we filled up our water. To have enough to drink definitely was helpful, as afterwards a long and steep ascending slope was waiting for us. Years ago, a dam had been constructed nearby and therefore the best part of the ascent was on a bulldozed track. Naturally, the trail was pretty wide for once, but that didn’t make the slope less steep nor the ascent less strenuous. :) Slowly heading upwards, we missed an unmarked turnoff onto a proper hiking trail at some point and therefore did all the ascending on the dirt track. That was no problem though, as we were about to cross the ACT again later on. What was a problem however, was the burning sun and the steepness of the slope, the two taken together turned the ascent into one big challenge.
Thankfully, all the "bad" things come to an end too and when the dirt track eventually leveled off, it led straight ahead at first, before it gently went downwards for some time. Seeing the official trail to our right, we had to make sure not to miss the next turnoff, as the dirt track was leading to the dam, while the trail was going along a crest through the upland of Iluliumanersuup Portornga. Luckily, finding the turnoff posed no real problem, but before we began our walk along the crest, we first had a brief discussion about where to set up camp for the night. There was a marked spot on the map at the next lake, but it seemed to be a bit far away. As there wasn't really any other option though, we decided to head there just the same. :) Maybe there were some other campsites along the way and while we kept our fingers crossed for that, we headed towards the crest, ascended to the top and were blown away by the fantastic view. A vast lake with some beautiful surrounding mountains had unfolded right in front of us and made for a truly spectacular panorama.
The following hour was a steady up and down and while our legs were tired from all the efforts before, there were quite a few things that made today's last challenge a bit easier. There was for example the ground: as it was mostly dry, there was no bog and that in turn meant less mosquitoes, something we didn’t mind at all. :) Also the sun kept on shining strongly, which meant that our shoes were drying and we still were able to walk in T-shirts and shorts. Last but not least, let's not forget the scenery, which simply remained magnificent throughout. Everything taken together, the walk along the crest turned into the most pleasant part of today. :)
Well, as it always is, time passes by fast if you enjoy it and so the lake we were looking for appeared sooner than expected. While the marked spot was on the far side of it, the chances for a possibility to camp at the very beginning of the lake, seemed pretty promising from far above and so we started our descent from the crest without hesitation. It mostly was a gentle slope to go down to and arriving at the shore about 10 minutes later, we had to find out that the best place had already been taken. A single tent stood at the perfect spot and there definitely was no space for us next to it. As neither of us wanted to walk any further, we decided to pitch our tents at the second best spot, which was a bit further away from the lake and on a bit more uneven ground than we would have preferred. Besides that however, the campsite simply was another beauty.
While the sun was slowly setting over the lake, we found a small beach at the shore and took a refreshing bath, which just felt fantastic and super soothing for all the additional bites we had gotten in the “Valley of Mosquitoes” today. :) Dinner for once was a bit larger than usual and while we were eating, two more trekkers arrived. Obviously, they knew the occupants of the other tent, for they said hello and placed their tent next to theirs. It was the first time that we shared our campsite, but we didn’t mind that at all. Enjoying another stunning sunset, we indulged in our daily whisky/chocolate ritual and once again called it a night rather early. A whole new dimension had been reached tonight however, as I went to bed with dry shoes, socks and feet for a second time in a row. What a luxury! :) Even so, today had definitely been the toughest day so far, but being six days on the trail already, I thought that until now, we were holding up pretty well. :)
Day 7: "It’s Reindeer Day!"
Well, not only the campsite was fantastic, but tonight had easily been the best sleep on the ACT so far. It wasn’t cold, the ground was super comfy and for once I actually slept through without waking up countless times during the night. As far as I could tell, my friends had a similar experience, as we packed our bags with a lighter step than the two mornings before. :) With our spirits high after the good sleep, Lisa told us at breakfast that today would be "Reindeer Day". :) We still had seen only one so far and were wondering where all the others were hiding. Leaving our lovely camping spot at a quarter to nine, we began to follow the path along the lakeshore, while our fellow campers hadn’t moved at all until now and were sleeping in today. The sky for once was fairly cloudy and because there had been some rain drops too, we prepared ourselves for more to come.
It was a gentle walk in the beginning and while some common loons came to bid us farewell, the clouds already started to loosen up somewhat.
That meant we were able to put away our rain gear for now and instead of battling through the anticipated rain, we enjoyed the incredible panorama that the sky, the mirroring lake and the surrounding mountains were offering. It was a pleasure to walk in such a scenery and the high point of today's beautiful morning had been reached, when the sun suddenly broke through the clouds as well. :)
Eventually leading away from the shore, the path led gently upwards for a while, soon giving us a good view of what lay ahead of us. Of course, there was yet another lake, as once we had left the lake we camped at behind, we slowly descended to the next one. :)
Arriving at the lakeshore at the end of the descent, we came across a crude track, which was accompanied by several wooden sticks. It didn't take long for us to realize that we finally had found the "road" that connected Kangerlussuaq with Sisimiut. Road however, was definitely the wrong word. We had expected a proper dirt road like we had seen it in the beginning of day two, but what we actually got, was a very simple ATV track that didn’t look like a road at all. :) Of course, we absolutely didn’t mind that, especially because we knew that we would see the track for the next four days and partly would even walk on it. In fact, right there, we could have walked along the track on the lakeshore, but as it looked kinda muddy, we decided to ascend to the upper slope and use the official trail. The ensuing ascent was rather arduous, but once the slope had leveled off, we enjoyed the neat path and the lovely views that came with it. While the weather so far was holding up pretty well, the wind had picked up some time ago and soon began to blow even stronger. Nevertheless, we kept a steady pace and before long started our descent towards the end of the lake. Coming upon the ATV track again at the bottom of the slope, we went around a hillside and had a first look into the next valley. A river was meandering through it and as the surroundings looked fairly boggy from afar already, we knew beforehand that the comfort of dry shoes soon was about to end.
Descending to the valley floor, we were happy to see that the trail at least stayed on the left side of the river and also didn’t touch the shore of the ensuing lake. Eventually starting our walk across the valley, the path was easy to follow at first, but it didn't take long until it vanished in the bog somewhere. Most of the time when that had happened, it had reappeared shortly afterwards, but today we had no such luck. Deciding to just walk across country until we found the trail again, the ATV track was already useful for a first time, as the wooden sticks in the distance were a helpful guidance. :) Unfortunately however, the bog really was strong in that valley and when we finally stood on solid ground again, our feet were soaked to the bones once more.
At least, the worst was behind us for the time being and following the path around another hillside, we finally saw the next hut residing on a distant crest. Since the fierce wind hadn’t let down so far, we decided to take our lunch break in the hut, as it naturally was much easier to cook and we all didn’t mind having some shelter from the elements. That in turn meant one last ascent before we could fill our bellies and while the slope wasn’t too steep, the ground was pretty soft and fairly strenuous to walk on. Unintentionally, each one of us took a different route, but in the end, there was no escape from the heavy wind and the soft ground, until we eventually had reached the Innajuattoq hut and gladly stepped inside.
The interior was small, but cozy and was therefore the perfect spot to play a game of chess after lunch. :) As Joni wanted to try the playing cards he had brought along, I took on his challenge and about an hour later had lost a pretty tight game. The whole thing might have taken a bit too long however, as in the end we had spent almost two hours in the hut. :)
Naturally, we now were a bit behind schedule, but at least the wind had subsided as much in the meantime that it was in fact quite pleasant when we stepped outside. Walking along the crest at first, we then descended to the second Innajuattoq hut, where we picked up the official trail again and right away came upon a river flowing out of another huge lake. The river was decently wide and only after some careful consideration, we found a place where we could safely cross over. Using the many rocks in the river, it was good fun to hop across and wouldn't our shoes have already been wet, we actually would have made it to the other side with dry feet. :)
Afterwards, we followed the shore of the lake for quite some time and in that part the ACT alternated regularly with the ATV track. So, a few times we were walking right upon the "road", before it ventured somewhere else, while we continued on a proper trail. Leaving the lake behind eventually, we headed upwards once more and while the wind wasn't really an issue anymore, a slight drizzle had set in for the first time. It was nothing to worry about too much and we just kept on walking steadily towards the saddle up ahead.
Having conquered about half of the slope, a sudden movement to our right caught our attention and a few seconds later a shout was heard: “Reindeer!” :) It actually was very close and moved restlessly around the hillside as if it was looking for something. While we were enjoying the surprising encounter, we also took a look into the distance and could see two more on the hillside. Beholding the three reindeer for a while, we walked on once they were out of sight and five minutes later already came across the next one. Well, what were we expecting? After all it was "Reindeer Day" today. :) That one was even closer, but as it acted as confused as the first one, the possibility was there that it might have been the same. Of course, we didn't care which one it was and observed the lovely animal until we had seen enough. :) Reaching the saddle shortly afterwards, the trail eventually leveled off and after a quick break to catch our breath, we started to walk along the mountainside. We had been on the move a mere couple minutes, when Joni suddenly said: “Oh look, another reindeer.” It stood about five meters away, staring at us with big eyes and wouldn't it have been for Joni, we would have walked past without noticing it at all. :)
Continuing our walk along the mountainside, it was about time to discuss where we would set up camp for tonight. As we didn’t have that much water anymore, we needed a lake or a river and while there were quite a few on the map, none of them really was on our way. Deciding to stay on the trail anyway, we just depended on our luck that there would be a lake, even though there wasn't one on the map. Well, we didn't really find the time to worry about that issue, as once we moved on, we came across one reindeer after the other. :) At first, there was a group of five grazing on the mountainside, before there were two big ones with some huge antlers, casually sitting in the grass enjoying life. :) So, today indeed was "Reindeer Day", as we saw about 15 overall. I guess not even Lisa had expected that, although she had proclaimed the "Reindeer Day" that very morning. :)
Thankfully, our luck wasn't at an end after all the reindeer, as right when we thought there wouldn't be a lake anymore, there suddenly appeared one just next to the trail. Not daring to walk any further, we were glad that we not only had found the required water, but that there also was a dry area for our tents. :) Once the camp stood and we had done our preparations for tomorrow, a rain front was about to move in. Deciding to cook our dinner afterwards, we went into our tents and waited. 10 minutes later the rain had stopped, but the prospects still weren't very promising, as the next front was already on its way. So, we opted to just heat up some water and eat the ready-made "Trek and Eat" portions, which we had brought for exactly such a case. Setting up a simple shelter for the cooker, we started to boil some water and whenever there was another gap in the rain front, someone was heading outside to check if it still was going and how much longer it would take. :) Of course, the gas had to run out at that very moment and while we were changing the can, we saw two other trekkers trudging along the trail. Especially the second one looked rather beaten and we were wondering where they were heading to today. Well, they were too far away to ask and as the rain intensified again, we soon were back in our tents. Cooking in conditions like that naturally takes a bit longer and when the food eventually was on our plates, it was well after 9 o’clock. Once we had eaten, there was no reason to go outside anymore and so, as an exception, we had our mandatory sip of whisky just by ourselves tonight. :)
Day 8: The Perfect Campsite
In the end, it was raining for the best part of the night, but fortunately, it had stopped when we got up at seven in the morning. The sky was still overcast, but we were able to eat our breakfast and pack up our stuff without having to don our rain gear.
Picking up the trail where we left it off yesterday, we passed some beautiful lakes, before we conquered a short ascent to another saddle.
On the other side, a longish descent along the mountainside awaited us, before ultimately another swampy valley wanted to be traversed. Well, the descent started gently enough on a rocky, bushy and luckily not very boggy trail, while at the same time there were some fantastic views to be had over the surrounding mountains.
Not having descended that far yet, we eventually passed the tents of the two trekkers which we had seen yesterday evening. The place where they had pitched their tents looked a bit like an emergency spot, but they both seemed to be in good health. Continuing with our descent, the way soon was barred by some huge creeping willows. While the willows had been a steady companion on the ACT so far, they were never as big as they were on that slope. Covering the path for quite a while, it was good fun to search for the way, while we sometimes almost couldn’t see each other anymore. :)
Taking a short break after that lovely part, we had an excellent outlook over the next valley and as there was another river flowing through, we assumed that the swamp would make its inevitable return before long. Moving on about 10 minutes later, we tried to stay on the mountainside as long as possible, but as there was no other option than the official trail anyway, we soon had reached the valley floor. Being reunited with the ATV track, we followed it for some time, before ultimately a proper hiking trail took over again. The farther we walked along the bottom of the valley, the more surprised we were about how dry everything was, especially after the rain of last night. We already had prepared ourselves for some deep bog, but there simply was none. :) Maybe it was because the trail kept a fair distance to the river or maybe the ground just could handle the rain better, whatever it was, we were happy about the easygoing walk. :)
As we also took a look backwards every now and then, we came to notice that we had two pursuers and while we thought it would be the campers from earlier today, we soon recognized the Danish couple that we had met some days ago. Their pace was much faster than ours, so they easily caught up with us and after a short conversation were on their way again. As we had no interest in stepping up our pace, we just walked on as before, but when we took another look back, saw the next pursuers already closing in. :) It almost felt a bit like a highway and while we still didn’t increase our tempo, the three ladies behind us certainly did so. The first one to overtake was almost running and seeing the determination on her face, her goal seemed clear: to arrive in the next hut before we do. Therefore, she also didn't stop to have a chat with us and the two other ladies followed suit, passing by with the same goal in mind. Well, we didn’t really bother and again kept the same pace as before. The Nerumaq hut appeared not much later on and when we eventually arrived there about 10 minutes later, we didn't have to take a look inside to know that it was pretty crowded in there. :)
Well, we didn't mind staying outside and while we were eating our mandatory snack, a drizzle began to fall. Actually, lunchtime was almost upon us, but as the hut was full and the mosquitoes were super annoying, we decided to take our lunch break a bit later today. Before we moved on however, we had to don our rain gear, as the drizzle in next to no time had turned into proper rain. From the hut, the trail led down to the river and once more we hopped from stone to stone to cross over to the other side. Walking along the riverbank afterwards, the following half an hour was rather bleak and so the idea arose to head all the way to the next hut if the weather would remain the same. That would have meant a very long day of about 26 kilometers and I wasn’t sure if we could handle that. After all, there were some minor body issues already: an inflamed tendon, some swollen feet, a couple swollen knees and not to mention the constant itch of our hundreds of mosquito bites.
Well, for the time being, there was nothing else to do than to walk on anyway and when the rain suddenly ceased about 30 minutes later, the world already looked a bit better again. :) Seeing some big boulders in the distance, they seemed to be the perfect spot for our lunch break and to our surprise, the way in between turned into quite some fun. While we had thought the willows in the morning were huge, it was nothing against the willows that stood in our way now. They were just enormous and not only the trail couldn't be seen anymore, but also my friends regularly disappeared from sight. :)
Once we had made it through that fantastic maze, we found a lovely spot at the riverside just after the aforementioned boulders and sat down for lunch. Not to our dismay, we noticed that the clouds slowly began to disperse and when we started to move again about one and a half hours later, the daylight seemed much brighter than before. That was the positive side of things, while the negative one was that the swamp with its mosquitoes had returned. :) Well, it was day eight and we were more than used to it by now, so we didn't really pay any attention and just walked on until we had reached the next river crossing. Looking for a place to get to the other side with dry feet, we simply couldn’t find one and while the others still were searching for some usable rocks to hop over, I had given up and just waded through the water. :) My friends followed one by one and as the river was surprisingly swift, we all had to take great care while wading across. Of course, our already wet shoes got even wetter and while Gregory and Zoe took of their boots full of water to empty them, the rest of us not only enjoyed another short pause, but more importantly, today's first breakthrough of the sun. :)
The last river crossing of the day followed shortly afterwards and as everything was wet already anyway, there was no hesitation anymore to wade through the water once again. :) Another boots-emptying break later, we began our walk across the next valley and while the ever-changing underground was definitely more tiresome than on other days, the beautiful surroundings easily made up for that. Being about halfway, a dry mound served as a good spot for another longer break and we not only feasted our eyes on the gorgeous view, but also took the opportunity for a well deserved bath in the sun. :) How the weather had changed was incredible and by now, the idea to walk to the next hut had been thoroughly abandoned.
As the weather was no longer an issue, we decided to just walk to the next lake and stay there for the night. It wasn't too long after the break on the mound however, when we came upon a bend in the river and the trail led down to the riverside. There was sort of a grassy peninsula up ahead and Lisa suggested pitching our tents there. At first I was a bit reluctant, as we could have done some more distance today, but as the rest immediately joined in with Lisa’s suggestion, I didn't need much persuasion anymore to agree that that was the right spot. :)
15 minutes later we had set up camp and by then we already knew that we had made one of the best decisions ever. :) The ground was dry and soft, while the shallow riverbank was the ideal bathing and washing spot and of course the magnificent weather helped as well, as we were able to hang up all our wet clothes to dry.
As it happened, for the first time in eight days, we finally had some spare time together after dinner. While we played cards and enjoyed the splendid scenery, the ever-delicious whisky and chocolate was the cherry on top of a perfect evening. :) Absolutely glad about how the day had turned out, we went to bed a bit later than usual, knowing that tonight's camping spot couldn't have been any better.
Day 9: The Cheesy Ending :)
What a difference the temperature can make, as we all had a cozy warm night and probably were never as fast in getting up and packing our things together. :) By now, of course, we had perfected our morning routine and because we eventually were getting low on food, there was less to pack each morning as well. One and a half days were still ahead of us and leaving our lovely campsite behind, we followed the riverbank in the beginning. Clouds littered the sky that morning, but with the mountains rising on the horizon and the gentle flowing river beside us, the panorama was absolutely gorgeous anyway. :)
Walking past a river bend shortly afterwards, the trail at last led away from its bank and headed in a direct line to the ensuing lake. While the views in that area remained as beautiful as before, the path unfortunately didn't and turned into one big swamp again. Yes, I know I'm repeating myself, but the title of this blog post doesn’t just come from somewhere. :)
Reaching the lakeshore about 15 minutes later, we followed it for the best part of the next hour and as the bog didn’t stop there, we decided to strike a new path. :) Whenever muddy water got into our shoes it obviously was super dirty and I guess you can imagine how our socks looked like and how our shoes were smelling. :) The clear water of the lake was therefore a good opportunity to clean both of them, while its coldness at the same time was soothing the itch of the mosquito bites on our legs. So, instead of heading along the shore, we just walked in the water as far as it was possible. :)
Naturally, that solution was only for a short term and it ended once the trail led away from the lake directly into the first ascent of today. At least we already saw the next hut on the hilltop ahead of us and we hoped that we would reach it in time before the rain was setting in. Dark clouds unfortunately had appeared some time ago and right when we were in the middle of the slope, a drizzle began to fall.
The drizzle changed to rain as soon as we had reached the hilltop and since we now could see the hut to our right a bit further down below, we almost ran there to get some shelter from the elements. :) Walking up the steps to the door, we tried to open it, but surprisingly enough, it was locked. Hmm, what was wrong? Taking a look through the two windows revealed a beautiful interior, much more beautiful than everything else we had seen so far. Also the outside looked rather different and only slowly did it dawn on us that we were standing on the doorstep of a private hut. Oops. :) Well, at least the views from there were fairly gorgeous, overlooking the vast fjord of Kangerluarsuk Tulleq to one side and the lake we just had passed to the other.
Even though we couldn't get inside, the hut in any case provided enough shelter for a short break and once we were ready to move on, the rain fortunately had almost stopped. Heading back to the official trail, we took a right turn and instantly saw the Kangerluarsuk Tulleq hut in the distance. Well, whoever walks around with open eyes is at an advantage. :) The ensuing walk across the plateau was pretty straightforward and eventually arriving at the correct hut, we settled inside for our lunch break. While we already knew that we wouldn't be sleeping in a hut tonight either, we absolutely were grateful for the shelter that they had given us more than once.
Knowing by now that we had enough food, today's lunch was big and ensured that we had sufficient fuel for the last proper ascent of the ACT. :) That challenge still had to wait a bit however, as once we picked up the trail again, we were faced by a gentle descending slope at first. While the views had been rather moderate during the bad weather, the panorama that now unfolded ahead of us was simply fantastic. The Kangerluarsuk Tulleq fjord to our feet was very impressive and with all its fishermen huts along the shore also a first sign that the end was coming closer.
The path never led down to the shore of the fjord, but instead followed the mountainside until we came upon a lovely waterfall. Taking a short break to fill up our water, the trail thereafter went gently upwards before it turned left and we finally could see it: the last proper ascent. :) To reach it, a river had to be crossed, but that proved to be no problem at all and soon we were in the steep slope heading upwards. Despite the steepness of it, the ascent somehow wasn't as strenuous as others we had done before. Maybe it was because of the light backpack, or maybe because we were a bit trained after all, maybe it was today's huge lunch or maybe it was because the end was near, whatever it was, we definitely didn’t mind that it wasn’t as challenging as expected. :) Sitting down in the middle of the slope anyway, we enjoyed the view and at the same time gave the swollen knees and inflamed tendon a short rest.
Eventually moving on, we had reached the steepest part of the rise before long and after we had conquered it, were greeted by a vast plateau with a building on it. The triangular shaped hut absolutely didn’t fit into the landscape and therefore we easily recognized it as the famous “loo with a view”. :) Whoever built the toilet there had done a great job, as it wasn't only the cleanest one on the whole ACT, but the view that came with it was just gorgeous.
Of course, we took the opportunity to empty our stomachs and when we started to move again afterwards, we followed a gentle rocky slope upwards at first, before the trail finally began to level off. Walking more or less straight ahead, the farther we ventured on that high plateau, the more beautiful it became. Lakes, rivers, mountains, it had to offer a little bit of everything. :) So, for the last time, the question of where to set up camp arose and because the whole plateau was rather rocky, we decided to walk to the very end of it, hoping to find a suitable spot there. Well, initially, it seemed that we had used up our luck, as it only got rockier, the closer we came towards the end. :)
Patience was key however, we had learned that during the past days and it wasn't any different today. :) Coming across a grassy patch in the midst of some boulders, it looked practical enough, but seemed a bit dull after all the amazing spots we had had so far. Therefore, I volunteered to scout again and about five minutes further along the trail came upon a beautiful viewpoint. Right there also was a possible campsite and although the ground was a bit uneven, it seemed to be the better option out of the two. Telling my friends my observations, they agreed to give it a try and while we had some difficulty finding four suitable places, everyone in the end had a spot to pitch their tent on. Once the camp stood, we sat down on some nearby rocks, enjoyed the panoramic view and had an early sip of our whisky. Even though we still had half a day ahead of us, it felt as if we had done it and that had to be celebrated. :) Having brought some “Biberli” from home, we shared those first, before we got an extra piece of chocolate, which in turn was followed by another sip of whisky. :)
Once our aperitif had ended, Zoe and Gregory had enough of the annoying mosquitoes and retired to their tent. Lisa in the meantime started cooking dinner, while Joni and I took some pictures of the stunning scenery. Today, the sky mostly had been overcast, so we were quite surprised when the sun suddenly broke through the clouds on the horizon. The sunbeams enlightened a part of the valley ahead of us and created an atmosphere that only could be admired. The longer we waited, the more the sun was shining and in the end, not only the valley was full of sunshine, but also our campsite. :)
Dinner tonight was about everything we had left and the pot was full to the brim with rice and vegetables. Accordingly, we ate as much as never before, but that felt absolutely right, as it perfectly suited our evening of celebration. :) For the last time we did the dishes at a nearby creek, washed the dirt off our legs and laid ourselves to sleep in our tents. Knowing that a proper bed and a shower was awaiting tomorrow, we were off to the land of dreams before long. :)
Day 10: The Surprise Swamp :)
While the sleep had been pretty okay, far more important to us was that it hadn’t started to rain during the night. So, when we rose on a cloudy morning and began to pack up, we were happy that we didn’t have to bother about drying our tents in Sisimiut. :) Since it was our very last day on the ACT, our morning routine for once was a little different, as instead of the by now hated porridge, we decided to eat a "Trek and Eat" portion for breakfast. That was almost a bit excessive, but at least it fueled our legs that much, that the steep descent from our campsite to the bottom of the valley happened within a breeze. :)
Having reached the end of the slope, a final river crossing proved to be a real challenge, as the river was pretty wide and a good spot to cross over had to be thoroughly looked for. While some of us made a wider detour to search for suitable stones, Lisa and I took the most direct approach, but no matter where, we fortunately all made it across with dry feet. :) Lisa and I walked on for a bit, before we decided to wait for the others and as that took longer than expected, I headed to a nearby lake to take some pictures. While those turned out gorgeous, I also suffered the last mosquito bites of the ACT, as there were hordes of them enjoying my arms and legs. While I really was looking forward to that shower, I was about as much craving for a mosquito free area. :)
Once we were all back together, a gentle ascending slope had to be conquered and arriving at a junction of trails shortly afterwards, we decided to go with the left one, as the right one seemed to ascend even more. We definitely had had enough of that during the last nine days and were perfectly fine with just walking straight ahead. :) Still enjoying the views over the surrounding mountains, we noticed for the first time that civilization was around the corner, when we came across a digger. He was working on the ATV track and turned the whole area into an enormous swamp. :)
Taking a wide detour around the digger, the mountainsides to our left and right finally began to recede and before long we could see the first houses appearing in the far distance. Not much later, we had reached the end of the valley and eventually leaving the trail and its swamps behind, we started to walk on a proper dirt road. That road also marked the beginning of the final descent towards Sisimiut and seeing the town ahead of us, a feeling of elation and disappointment washed over me. Elation because we had made it, disappointment because it was over. Naturally, elation was stronger than disappointment and with a light step, I followed my friends down the road towards civilization. :)
In the middle of the descent, Gregory decided to change his shoes, as we expected to only walk on roads from now on. Having the past days in our minds however, we were joking that there must be a surprise swamp somewhere in between and of course, at that point, we didn't know how right we were. :) Eventually arriving at the end of the descent, we came across some serious construction work on the road, which, similar to the digger before, caused the whole area to turn into a deep swamp. Luckily, there was a well trodden trail to the right side and so we made it past the construction site unscathed. :) The next surprise was waiting just afterwards though, as the road suddenly went upwards again. Oh, come on, really? Well, the end was too near to be complaining too much and so we headed up the slope anyway. :) The road wound itself through the hills of Sisimiut and once we came upon the outskirts of the town, we walked past the seasonally unemployed sledge dogs. While they were beautiful to look at, they understandably seemed to be utterly bored, as they were lying around for quite a while already.
After having taken a good look, we moved on and eventually reached the main street with its beautiful Greenlandic houses. Heading along the first paved road since Kangerlussuaq, we knew that we would pass the Hotel Sisimiut at some point and prayed that they still had some space available for us. Luckily, they did and the whole hotel surprisingly was way above our expectations. Nice rooms, friendly workers, a fantastic restaurant and even a spa, that we booked right away to have a hot tub session before dinner. :) First priority had the long awaited shower however and once that was done, we sat down in the restaurant and treated ourselves to an absolutely well deserved burger and beer. :)
Looking back to our time on the ACT, I must say that it was just a perfect hike for me. Not only was the scenery mind blowing, but also overcoming the challenge of carrying food and gear for ten days, left a huge satisfaction in me. That we had no choice but to disconnect from the online world was a massive bonus too. No disrupting phone calls, no overload of useless information, no bad news from our withering world, it simply was a blessing. :) Not to mention that we were outdoors for most of the time, to get so much fresh air into my lungs was just wholesome. And last but definitely most important, my friends made the whole thing even better. I thought we worked very well together as a group, everyone was helping in the daily work, everyone was supportive of the other when one had a bit of a rough time and well, there was not a single argument during the whole ten days, which in my opinion already says a lot. :) So, here comes a massive thank you to Zoe, Lisa, Gregory and Joni, I'll be forever grateful that I was able to do this journey with you and please know that it will always have a special place in my heart. While no one knew in the beginning how it would turn out, kudos to all of you, you did it! :)
Highlights of the ACT: the whole "trail experience", the stunning views all over, the fantastic camping spots and the weather, which was way better than expected :)
This hike is for you if:
- you don’t mind carrying all your gear and food for about ten days
- you want to choose between sleeping in a tent or in a simple hut
- you’re looking for a long distance trail that isn’t overrun by the masses
- you don't mind walking past a thousand lakes and through a thousand swamps :)
This hike is not for you if: - you don’t want to get eaten by mosquitoes, midges and/or musk oxen flies :) - you have no experience in long distance hiking or wild camping at all - you can’t live for ten days without getting any connection to the outside world :)
- you mind getting wet feet :)
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