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Writer's pictureSam

Taking a detour along the West Highland Way

Updated: Nov 10, 2023

After the Cairngorms national park it was time for another break. First a couple days in Edinburgh, then a couple days in Inverness. Actually it had been the plan to go further north from Inverness, but as the public transport up there was not really good, I decided to head south again. As a friend was joining on Friday for a weekend hike, I already knew that I had to be in Crianlarich by then. Leaving Inverness on Wednesday, that left me with another day of hiking and exploring. Knowing that I would be taking the bus in Fort William on Friday morning, I did some research and found a couple hikes to do in Kinlochleven, a little village about 45 minutes by bus from Fort William. The forecast for Wednesday and Thursday was so so (a couple showers with a gentle breeze) and I thought it best to decide which hike I would do once I had reached Kinlochleven. Arriving there on Wednesday afternoon, a shower had just passed by and the clouds were all hanging around the mountains. As the conditions didn't look that good, I chose to do the hike with the lower altitude. The chosen walk was a loop and should bring me to the summit of Mam na Gualainn and back to Kinlochleven again. When I started to walk I already knew where to go. The first part was along the West Highland Way, a long distance hike of about 7 days, which I hiked not even two years ago. Even though I did a lot of hiking in between, there were still enough memories of this part that I knew what was coming first: a steep ascent. :) Remembering what was waiting at the top of the ascent, I brought it behind me without any difficulties and soon enjoyed a wonderful lookout over Kinlochleven and the surrounding mountains.


Kinlochleven is the village to the left

Carrying on, I reached a big gravel road and following it for a while I could see my intermediate target, the mountain Beinn na Caillich, coming closer. Not much later I reached the turnoff and turned left towards the mountain. Crossing a construction site and a footbridge, another steep ascent waited for me. This one took quite long and I had to take some clothes off along the way, as I was drenched with sweat. The further I got though, the better was the view. Kinlochleven, Loch Leven and the enclosing mountains made for a pretty sight. When the ascending slope finally was behind me, I reached a huge plateau with some minor ascents in between. Knowing that I already had walked enough for today, the question I asked myself now was, where to set up camp for the night. If I would walk further, there would be a nice ridge where I could camp, just beyond the summit of Beinn na Caillich. But the weather looked still not very promising and right when I reached the plateau the wind had started to pick up. So I decided to stay on the plateau and camp there, instead of being exposed on the ridge and risk waking up in the clouds the next morning. Finding a nice spot, I set up my tent and weren't it for the wind, it actually would have been pretty comfortable. The wind was tugging and shaking relentlessly at my tent and I felt like I was back on Arran. :) It was not as bad this time, but nevertheless the sleep was rather rough. It also was raining a lot during the night and as nothing had changed when I woke up, I knew it didn't look good for my ridge walk. A look towards the peak of Beinn na Caillich confirmed my foreboding. The summit was somewhere in the clouds and I basically couldn't see anything. :)


The picture says it all...

As I was not in a rush, I ate my breakfast first, packed my bag and waited for about an hour for a change of the weather. Well, there was none. The clouds were still there and so was the rain and wind. So what should I do now? There were quite a few options: just go ahead and try to finish the loop, walk back to Kinlochleven the way I came from or retrace my steps to the West Highland Way and walk the last stage from there to Fort William. As I didn't knew the way along the ridge, as there were apparently parts without a proper path, as there wouldn't have been any views and as it seemed that the clouds wouldn't move anytime soon, I decided not to carry on with the loop. But I also didn't want to go back to Kinlochleven. I wanted to stay outside a bit longer, even though the weather was pretty bad. So the decision was taken to walk back to Fort William along the West Highland Way. Packing up my tent, I descended back down, had a nice chat with a friendly construction site worker and rejoined the West Highland Way a bit later on. The first hour and a half I walked along a valley, always with the ridge in sight. Well, "sight" was the wrong word as I couldn't see it at all. :) The clouds were still there and it was obvious that I made the right decision.


The ridge would have been on the mountains to the left

Of course the walk was not as exciting as the first time, because I more or less knew what was coming. Nevertheless I enjoyed the fresh air and the warming up of my legs for the weekend hike. The trail led mostly straight ahead, passing a lot of deadwood and farming land. Views there were not that many, clouds and rain mostly reigned the sky. It was therefore no surprise that I couldn't see Ben Nevis, the highest mountain in the UK, when I passed it just before the descent to Glen Nevis started. Right there I finally found a sheltered spot in the forest and that's where I took my lunch break. Strenghtened from the break I took the last hour under my feet and soon arrived at the Glen Nevis campsite where I stayed for the night. It was the first time during my journey in Scotland that a hike turned out different than planned. Nevertheless I enjoyed the time outdoors and considered myself lucky that it took three full weeks to get a hike with bad weather only. :)


Lowlight of the day: the bad weather


This hike is for you if:

- you want to get a glimpse of the West Highland Way

- you're looking for a trail which can be walked in bad weather too

- you want to feel the presence of Ben Nevis (or may be you have more luck and you actually can see him :))


This hike is not for you if:

- you want to scale a summit

- you're looking for panoramic views of the highlands


Approaching Beinn na Caillich on the West Highland Way

View towards Kinlochleven during my ascent up to Beinn na Caillich

Too much deadwood and chopped trees along the way

With good weather, Ben Nevis would have been looming at the back of the picture

The West Highland Way is marked pretty good and also the turnoff towards Beinn na Caillich is quite obvious, so navigation should not be an issue here

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