Montenegro was the next country on the list after my short visit to the Tara national park in Serbia. Initially I didn't plan to go to Kotor, as I knew that there were loads and loads of tourists. But due to the rather difficult bus connections to my actual planned destination, I changed my mind and made my way to Kotor all the same. From my research beforehand, I knew that there also were hikes to be done and that a national park was close-by as well. Looking into it some more when I arrived in Kotor, it was soon becoming clear that there was only one thing for me to do, the Ladder of Kotor. With over 70 switchbacks it led up a mountain with plenty of views over the bay of Kotor. Apparently many people connect this hike with the walk up the fortress walls, but I decided to start at the very bottom to do all the switchbacks possible. :) Leaving my hostel to a shining sun, I soon arrived at the starting point just next to the old town. For once I didn't start early and when I did my first steps on the trail, the clock just stroke 9 o'clock. In the beginning the switchbacks were not that far apart and I gained some height quite fast. 15 minutes into the ladder, I already met the first people on their way down. Wow, they must have been up pretty early... To be sure, in the old town of Kotor there really were masses of tourists, but on the ladder in the early morning hours, it was pretty quiet. Steadily I walked upwards and was glad that first, the way wasn't steep at all and second, that the sun was still behind the mountains. Every now and then I turned around towards the bay of Kotor and at the risk of repeating myself, the view got better and better with every step further up. :)
Soon the fortress walls were on the same height as I was and I took a little break when I passed a herd of mountain goats grazing close-by. In the meantime the switchbacks were much farther apart, but that didn't really matter, as the only downside was, that I didn't gain height as fast as in the beginning. Up and up I went and it was obvious by now that it had been the right decision to pay Kotor a visit.
After about one and a half hour a tiny peak barred the view for a little while and it was the first time since the very start that the view of the bay was not complete.
Nevermind though, as when the peak was not in the way anymore the view was even better than before. What a scenery to behold!
Knowing that the end of the switchbacks were near, it came faster than expected and I said goodbye to the bay of Kotor for the moment. Continuing onwards, I entered the forest and soon came upon a turnoff where I decided to take the path to the left. The way narrowed and walking through the forest it took me about 45 minutes of scrambling upwards over rocks and roots to reach the main road that led from Kotor to the Lovćen national park. As I had enough time, I decided to keep on walking and had a look on the map. First I thought to pay the national park a visit, but it turned out that the trails there were way too long. Therefore I opted for another shorter trail outside of the national park, that led to a peak and a viewpoint close-by. So before long I was off the main road again and followed a gravel road for a while until I reached a signpost.
From there the way led back into the forest and it soon turned out that the peak would involve a lot of scrambling, so I opted to use the detour around it. It was a fun walk now. The trail super narrow, many rocks to scramble over and every now and then a little peek of the bay in the distance. About 25 minutes into the trail, the view opened up and I thought that I had reached the viewpoint. Another couple was there as well and they were about to continue onwards. As I wanted to leave them alone and as I was pretty hungry, I decided to climb a little bit upwards in direction of the peak behind me. Finding a nice rock, I sat down to a already marvelous view and enjoyed a nice sandwich for lunch.
Seeing the other couple on a ridge in front of me, I wondered if I wasn't at the final viewpoint yet and yes, of course it was where they were. So after lunch I made my way towards the ridge and it was the perfect timing, as they had decided to leave, I had the place all to myself. And wow, what a view that was! Even better than from my lunchtime spot. The bay of Kotor laid to my feet and I could see all the mountains around it, as well as the ocean at the horizon.
Once again I could have stayed there for ages, but after 45 minutes it was time to retrace my steps. Back at the main road, I passed the way I ascended in the morning and decided to take a different path back to the turnoff in the forest. The descent in the woods didn't took me long and arriving at the first switchback from the top again, I had to sit down once more to enjoy the panorama a little longer. So far it had been a perfect day and not even the clouds that shrouded the sun in the meantime could diminish my joy. Walking down the ladder again was super nice as well, as the bay was always in front of me and as the descent for once was not steep at all, my knees enjoyed a well deserved rest from the strain of the past months. :)
Coming upon the fortress walls again, I passed a house that sold some drinks and food. Yep, that was exactly what was missing. :) Sitting down on the terrace, drinking an ice cold beer and watching how the sun was disappearing behind the mountains, it made the day even more perfect. :) The beer empty and the sun behind the mountains, it was time to carry on and return back to Kotor. Funnily enough, there were still people going upwards at that time of the hour. A little bit late I thought... :) Well, I made it down safe and sound and walking back through the old town, I was overwhelmed by the masses of people after the solitude of the mountains. All in all, the detour to Kotor was totally worth it though and leaving the next morning, I did this with good memories only.
Highlight of the day: definitely the viewpoint towards the bay of Kotor
This hike is for you if: - you don't mind a long walk up and downwards - you want to see something else of Kotor than just the old town - you're looking for the best panoramic views over the bay of Kotor - you want to escape the masses of people on the fortress and in the old town
This hike is not for you if: - you mind sharing the trail with many other people - you don't like walking a trail that consists only of switchbacks :) - you can't handle some scrambling along the way (only after the ladder of course)
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